Roast Goose - & a Novel

“Oh, and we must have a goose,” Carter added. “For the Christmas feast.”

“The lady Lydia is attempting to procure such a bird.” Chal shook his head. “I do not grasp the significance of fowl among the English at Christmas, but she insists it’s necessary.”

“I must agree with the lady.”

A Holiday Season at Clifton Hall

In Regency England, nothing said “Merry Christmas” quite like a roast goose—mostly because it was cheap, easy to fatten, and didn’t require a sprawling estate to raise one. Geese were basically the Regency equivalent of meal prepping: feed it scraps for a few months, and voilà, Christmas dinner waddles right up to your door.

Roast goose wasn’t just a meal; it was a full-blown event. Picture it: a glorious, golden-brown bird arriving at the table like the Beyoncé of Christmas meats, with crackling skin and juicy, savoury goodness underneath. Move over, bland beef roast—this was the true showstopper of the season.

And this wasn’t just about taste. Goose was a historical power move, harking back to medieval times when plopping a fat goose on the table symbolised prosperity, abundance, and the subtle flex that you could afford more than a sad bowl of gruel. In short, a roast goose was the edible equivalent of Christmas bragging rights.

Roast goose features rather prominently (and deliciously) in my collaborative #regencyera release, so I figured it was time for a recipe. This one's based on the one in Miss Leslie's Complete Cookery - a popular Regency cookbook.

Roast Goose Recipe

Preparing the Goose:

• Save the Giblets:
  Set aside the goose's giblets (heart, liver, etc.) to use later for making gravy.
• Soak to Soften the Flavour:
  To make the goose taste milder, soak it in a weak saltwater solution for a few hours.
• (Special Step for Older Geese: if your goose is older, quickly dunk it in boiling water for about 5 minutes. This helps tenderise it.)
• Clean and Truss:
  Wash the goose well inside and out. Then truss (tie) it neatly with kitchen string so it holds a nice, compact shape. This also helps it cook evenly and hold lots of delicious stuffing.

Roasting the Goose:

• Season the Inside:
  Wipe the inside of the goose with a clean cloth, then sprinkle it with salt and pepper.
• Prepare the Stuffing:
  I used sweet potatoes mashed with butter or gravy, and boiled chestnuts.
• Stuff the Goose:
  Fill the goose with your chosen stuffing, pressing it in firmly but don’t overfill. The stuffing will expand during cooking.
• Coat the Goose:
  Rub the outside of the goose with sweet lard or butter for a crispy, golden finish.
• Set up for Roasting:
  Place the goose in a roasting pan along with the giblets, neck, and any trimmings. Pour in two teacups of boiling water to keep it moist.
• Roast:
  Cook the goose in a hot oven. Baste it often with the pan juices to keep it juicy and turn it regularly so it browns evenly on all sides.
• Serve:
  Once roasted, serve the goose hot with rich gravy or a tasty onion sauce.

Simple Apple Sauce:

For a perfect side dish, stew juicy apples until they’re dry and soft. Sweeten them to taste and add some grated lemon zest and lemon juice for flavour.

I hope you're able to try it - indeed, I hope you're able top procure a goose as well. There is some issue with this in my novella, and my Romany heroine is at first suspected of theft (a prejudice that is common even today). Turns out, she is not a thief.

I'll end with my favourite quote from my novella - which is where a villainous curate gets his comeuppance:

An ugly vein throbbed at the curate’s temple. “I’m not claiming anything, Mr Clifton. My poultry house has been rifled, sir. I’m told three of my geese are gone.”

A Holiday Season at Clifton Hall